Once the gouge has been correctly sharpened, it doesn’t take much afterwards to bring the edge to sharpness. This applies to natural wear on the edge from use and not as a result of his injuries. When all this needs some honing, and return to razor sharpness, and not true sharpening, there’s something very convenient that you can do about it.
One of the ways to bring your edge back to pristine condition is to make a gouge honing Board. Instead of using a fine sharpening stone class all the time, you could use very handy honing of the Council to regain the advantage. Here’s what you’ll need:
Solid rectangular block of softwood, 3″ x 2″ x 1″ (l x W x h)
A mixture of rust, fine abrasive powder or paste
Bench knife, fixed blade less than 5″ long
A tool with a sharpened edge/an old knife
Gouges for honing
A block of wood does not have to be a certain size, close enough. If you want better control, it can easily be longer or wider. The honing section that you create can be placed anywhere on the unit, which suits you best. In the end, that’s what makes this honing Board is your comfort and ease in honing chisels.
There are many types of rust-compounds. What you want is a material that can cover the surface with a light application, especially in troughs and tight corners. You definitely don’t want rust or polishing compound that comes in the form of a solid block. It will be almost useless in this application.
A bench knife is preferred because of the small fixed blade. You don’t need much of a cutting edge to make the honing Board. You just need something strong and sharp. Be sure this knife has been sharpened before.
Here we go. Take the wood block and decide where you would like to create a honing section. If you follow the given dimensions, just start about one inch inwards from the width-wise side. Take the gouge to be sharpened and cut a concave or positive profile in the forest. Using the exact dimensions of the gouge as your guide, be careful not to extend beyond the trough than the gouge is wide.
Now you’ll cut the convex or negative profile in the tree. Take the same gouge used to make a positive profile. To move forward along the inside of the bar about a quarter inch. That would be a quarter of an inch inward from the positive profile. Take the gouge and turn it over so that the trough is upside down. In this position, to reduce the negative profile of the gouge to the wood. Take care not to widen the convex curve further than the gouge is wide.
You just made a gouge honing Board. Well done. Use a bench knife to square the edges between the carved profiles. It won’t be hard for you to create a custom honing Board with positive and negative profiles for each of your regularly used gouges.
Now you will prepare it for honing. Make a mixture of rust and using an old knife or tool with a sharpened edge, evenly spread the mixture around using the positive profile. When you’re finished, apply the mixture evenly rust the convex surface of the negative profile. Take the overturned gouge to softly pack compound to the tight turns negative profile. And now your gouge honing Board is ready.
When it came time to use it, just follow the bevel of the gouge. For the positive profile, lay them gouge in the trough, which should fit nice and tight with a mixture of rust added, and pull your gouge through with the external taper of a stream on the honing Board. For the negative profile, turn your gouge and install it on curved surfaces and in tight corners. With internal conical stoked on the wood, pull it smoothly through the profile. Apply more complex rust, if necessary. Only use moderate pressure when pulling your gouges over the honing Board.
There you go. You have successfully made yourself a gouge honing Board. And you know how to use it properly. Just remember, it’s not actually sharpening, but it will be already sharpened, undamaged edge back to good working condition. It’s very simple but very effective. Just imagine what other quick fixes could be made for carving tools.